How to Replace a Faucet Aerator

You can replace a faucet aerator by removing the old unit, matching its threads and flow rate, then installing and testing the new one. This small part at the end of the spout often causes weak flow, side-spraying water, splashing, or a stream that is no longer straight. The key is to identify the aerator style before buying a replacement and to avoid forcing stuck threads.

What a Faucet Aerator Does and When to Replace It

A faucet aerator is the screen-and-insert assembly at the end of the faucet spout. It mixes air into the water stream to make the flow feel smoother and more controlled, reduce splashing, and, in many models, reduce water use.

Cleaning may be enough if the aerator is clogged with mineral scale or debris. Replace it when you notice any of these problems:

Water sprays sideways or comes out in several thin streams.
Flow stays weak after cleaning.
The screen, plastic insert, or gasket is cracked or misshapen.
Water leaks from the joint between the aerator and faucet.
You want a lower-flow bathroom aerator to reduce water use.

A replacement has to match the faucet’s threading and shape before its flow rating can matter.

Replace the Faucet Aerator Step by Step

Gather a towel or sink plug, masking tape, a replacement aerator, and an aerator key if your faucet has a recessed insert. Keep an adjustable wrench available for a protruding metal aerator that will not turn by hand.

Use this guide to identify what you have before you remove or buy anything.

What You Find at the Spout	What to Match	Removal Tool
A protruding aerator housing with visible threads	Thread direction, diameter, housing length, and gasket arrangement. Common male-thread aerators are 15/16 inches; common female-thread aerators are 55/64 inches.	Hand first; tape-protected adjustable wrench if needed
A recessed or hidden aerator inside the spout	The exact insert shape and key pattern	Matching aerator key
A specialty aerator with a slot, coin opening, rectangular shape, or unusual profile	The original part or exact manufacturer-compatible replacement	Specialty key, coin, or manufacturer-specified tool
A bathroom aerator marked with a flow rate	Flow rating as well as fit. Common choices are 1.0 GPM, 1.5 GPM, 1.8 GPM, and 2.0 GPM. A WaterSense-labeled bathroom aerator uses a maximum of 1.5 GPM.	Depends on the aerator style

Step 1: Protect the Sink and Inspect the Aerator

Turn off the faucet and place a towel over the drain or insert the sink plug. Aerator screens, washers, and small plastic inserts can easily fall into an open drain.
Dry the faucet tip so you can see whether the aerator protrudes below the spout or sits recessed inside it.
Check whether threads are visible on the outside or inside of the faucet tip. Do not select a replacement by apparent size alone; aerators that look alike may have different threads or be too long for a low-profile faucet.
If you are replacing a bathroom aerator for water savings, choose the flow rate before installing it. Check local requirements and the old aerator’s marking if it has one.
Avoid creating spray while working around the faucet, especially if someone in the household is 50 or older, smokes, has a weakened immune system, has chronic lung disease, or has an underlying health condition. The New Jersey Department of Health identifies these groups as having higher risk from waterborne respiratory illness.

Step 2: Remove the Old Aerator

Grip a protruding aerator and turn it counterclockwise when looking directly at the end of the faucet.
Start by hand. If it is snug, wrap masking tape around the aerator to protect the finish, then turn it gently with an adjustable wrench.
Stop if the housing will not move with moderate pressure. Corroded or heavily scaled aerators can damage the faucet spout when forced.
For a recessed aerator, insert the matching key so it engages fully with the notches, then turn counterclockwise. With integrated-thread aerators, the key’s indentations must interlock with the aerator before you turn it; a poorly seated key can break the serrations.
Once the aerator is out, take a photo before disassembling it. Then look inside the faucet spout for a washer, gasket, plastic insert, or screen that stayed behind. Carefully remove any loose old parts before installing a new aerator.

I use an adjustable wrench only over masking tape here because the tape helps protect the faucet finish while the wrench applies even pressure.

Step 3: Match the Replacement Before Installing It

Bring the old aerator to the hardware store if you are unsure of the thread size, key pattern, or gasket style.
Match the replacement’s thread type, diameter, housing depth, and flow rate. A new aerator should start threading easily by hand.
Check that the replacement includes a washer or O-ring in the correct position. Reusing a flattened, cracked, or missing gasket is a common cause of leaks.
Wipe debris and mineral scale from the faucet threads with a damp cloth before installation.

Step 4: Install and Test the New Aerator

Set the washer or O-ring in place if it is not already seated in the new aerator.
Hold the aerator squarely against the faucet and turn it clockwise by hand. If it does not catch within the first turn, remove it and realign it; forcing it can cross-thread the faucet or damage plastic threads.
Tighten it hand-snug. Use the aerator key or tape-protected wrench only for a small final adjustment.
Turn on the faucet and watch the stream. Check the joint between the aerator and spout for drips.
If water leaks at the joint, turn off the faucet, remove the aerator, check that the washer is flat and properly seated, then reinstall it. Tighten only enough to stop the leak.

Remove a Stuck Aerator or Clean a Clogged One

Free a Mineral-Stuck Aerator

Turn off the faucet and cover the drain with a towel or plug.
Fill a small plastic bag with white vinegar and tie it around the faucet so the aerator is completely submerged.
Leave the vinegar bag in place for 10 to 20 minutes to loosen mineral deposits.
Remove the bag, wipe the aerator dry, and try turning it counterclockwise by hand. Use a properly fitted key for a recessed insert or a tape-protected wrench for a protruding housing.
If it comes free and you are replacing it, remove any old washer or insert left in the spout. Install the matching new aerator clockwise by hand, snug it gently, then run water and check for a straight stream and leaks.
If it still will not move, stop. Corrosion or rust that may damage the faucet calls for a licensed or qualified plumber.

Clean an Aerator You Plan to Reuse

After removing the aerator, take a photo of the assembled parts so you can return screens, flow restrictors, and gaskets to the correct order.
Disassemble the aerator over the towel-covered drain.
Submerge the parts in a cup of white vinegar for 20 to 30 minutes. Check the buildup severity and the aerator manufacturer’s cleaning instructions if heavy scale remains.
Rinse each piece under running water and remove loosened debris from the screen.
Check inside the faucet spout for a gasket or insert that may have stuck there, then reassemble the aerator in the order shown in your photo.
Thread it back onto the faucet by hand, tighten gently, and run water to confirm the stream is smooth and the connection does not leak.

Replace Hidden and Special-Shape Aerators

Recessed Integrated-Thread Aerators

A hidden aerator sits inside the faucet tip, often flush with or slightly above the end of the spout. It needs a matching aerator key rather than pliers or a standard wrench.

Integrated-thread aerators are a separate replacement type that needs a matching aerator key. For integrated-thread aerators, make sure the matching aerator key fully engages the insert before removing or installing it. When installing the replacement, keep the key aligned so the plastic threads clamp correctly, and tighten carefully so the O-ring stays in place.

Run the faucet after installation. If water drips between the aerator and spout, remove it, inspect the O-ring, reinstall it straight, and tighten gently.

CACHÉ Aerators

A CACHÉ aerator is a recessed style that typically needs a specific key. Confirm that your faucet uses this style before ordering the insert.

For CACHÉ model faucets, screw the replacement in only until it is flush with the faucet; do not screw it in completely. Turn on the water afterward and check both the water stream and the spout-to-aerator joint.

Rectangular Aerators

Rectangular aerators need an exact shape match because their seals and retaining methods vary. Align the replacement carefully with the spout opening before inserting it.

A 24.5 x 9 mm rectangular faucet aerator can be pushed directly into the spout without a grub screw. Other rectangular styles may need the aerator aligned so its grub screw meets the faucet’s pre-drilled hole. Once secured, run the water and check that the stream exits evenly without leaking around the insert.

Test the Repair and Keep the Aerator Clear

A correctly installed aerator should produce an even stream, stay dry around the threaded connection, and remain secure when the faucet is turned on and off.

Use this quick check after any replacement or cleaning:

The stream is straight rather than fanning or spraying sideways.
Water does not seep from the connection between the faucet and aerator.
The aerator does not wobble or loosen by hand.
Water flow is normal for that faucet and the selected flow rating.

Clean the aerator twice a year to prevent mineral buildup and trapped debris. Clean it more often if buildup returns quickly or the manufacturer recommends a different schedule.

If the faucet still has weak flow after the aerator has been cleaned or replaced, the problem may be inside the faucet body, supply line, or shutoff valve rather than at the spout. A plumber can assess a heavily corroded faucet, a damaged spout, or water leaking from anywhere other than the aerator connection.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Do I Remove a Stuck Aerator on a Delta Kitchen Faucet?

For a stuck aerator, cover the drain, soak a mineral-stuck aerator in a vinegar bag for 10 to 20 minutes, then try the correct key or a tape-protected wrench. Confirm whether the insert is hidden before using a wrench. If it remains stuck after soaking, avoid forcing the spout and call a qualified plumber.

Are All Faucet Aerators Removable?

No. Many are removable, but some are recessed, use a proprietary key, or are built into a specialty faucet outlet. A faucet may also have no separate aerator at all. Inspect the spout carefully and match the replacement to the exact insert, housing, or key pattern.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Faucet Aerator?

A basic replacement aerator can cost as little as a few dollars. Specialty recessed inserts, unusual finishes, and brand-specific key systems can cost more. Buying the correct style first is usually cheaper than trying several parts that do not fit.

How Often Should I Replace a Faucet Aerator?

Clean the aerator twice a year, then replace it when cleaning no longer restores a smooth stream, the screen or housing is damaged, or the gasket continues to leak. There is no need to replace a clean, undamaged aerator that performs properly. If mineral buildup returns quickly, use the faucet manufacturer’s maintenance guidance and inspect the water quality in your home.

What If the New Aerator Will Not Thread Onto the Faucet?

Do not force a new aerator that will not thread onto the faucet. It may have the wrong thread direction, diameter, housing depth, or gasket placement, or an old washer or insert may be blocking the new part. Remove it and compare it with the old aerator before trying again. Remove it, compare the old and new thread direction, diameter, housing depth, and gasket placement, then check inside the spout for an old washer or insert that is blocking the new part. Take the old aerator and the replacement to the store for a direct match, or choose the manufacturer-specific insert when the faucet uses a recessed or specialty design.